Malawi has been widely known as the warm heart of Africa for ages. Fairly central in Africa and brimming with friendly, welcoming people. After a safari spanning three parks, I can vouch for this. True story.
What is less well-known is just how neglected and abused the National Parks of Malawi had become. So, when African Parks stepped in 2003 to assist the government in bringing them back to life, it was a crucial turning point. Fast-forward 23 years and the positive change is evident at everywhere.
In Malawi, land and space is at a premium. With a population density of over 600 people per square mile, it is not hard to understand why. For the parks, engaging with the surrounding communities in meaningful ways is critical. Things are working – animal numbers are up, tourism is increasing and the natural heritage of Malawi is being conserved for future generations.
The first park under African Park’s management was Majete. Along the banks of the lower Shire River it is now home to not only majestic Sable antelope, but the predators have been returned too. African Wild Dogs, Lion and Cheetah most notably have found a new home here.
Majete is living proof that restoration is possible. As a visitor there are smart and medium range accommodation options that all work well. We also took the opportunity to sleep out on a platform waiting for Black Rhino to drink in the dark and had the incredible Bat Hawk visit in the darkest hours of the night! Majete is unquestionably one of the great restoration stories in Africa and well worth coming to experience on so many levels.
As some parks flourish, others are on a slower recovery path. The Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve lies west of Lake Malawi with rolling hills of stunning miombo woodland and the Bua River running through it. The major step was the incredible reintroduction of 500 elephants into the reserve. It is a large wild space with few visitors which is something to be savoured.
And despite this reserve being off the main tourist map, there is the excellent Tongole Wilderness Retreat from which to enjoy your stay in the park. We saw monkeys, bushbuck, elephant and great birds in and around the camp. Paddling the Bua River was a real highlight of our stay.
The third park we visited was Malawi’s premier national park, Liwonde. In the late dry season, the activity along the Shire River is as good and busy as in many of Africa’s more famous parks. Large Sable herds came out of the mopane woodlands to drink at the river. Lion and cheetah seemed to be doing well, although we missed seeing the recently reintroduced Wild Dogs.
Spending time on the Shire River may in my opinion be the best boat safari in Africa. Flocks of African Skimmers, elephants everywhere, herds of waterbuck and something to see at every turn. One gets a real sense of the health of this ecosystem when on the river. I would do it again in a heartbeat!
We had many fascinating sightings, but the bushpig out in the open was a distinct highlight.
